Global Gourmet Blog

Let Them Eat Pastrami

Katz's Deli Plans to Ship Worldwide

It has been a rough decade for delicatessen. New York’s famed Stage Deli served its last overstuffed sandwich in 2012, and the Carnegie Deli closed last December. If two such icons can’t make it in the Big Apple, what hope is there for the provinces? While the Stage and the Carnegie both had real estate issues of different sorts, the…

Grape Archaeology

The Resurrection of Arneis

In 2017 it’s hard to believe that Italy was once an emerging wine region, but there was a time when perception of Italian wine quality in this country couldn’t have been lower.

Sidebar Cellars

David Ramey Cuts Loose

I first met David Ramey in 1992, when he was in charge of the cellar at Chalk Hill. He was obviously a winemaker of great talent, and just as clearly his future was going to be brilliant.

Domaine de la Vougeraie

Burgundy at its Best

The flamboyant Jean-Charles Boisset has always been a bit of a maverick. The scion of a Burgundy vintner, he was determined from an early age to move to America. When he ultimately settled in San Francisco in the early 1990s he managed the office of his family’s enterprise, Boisset America. A few years later he purchased Lyeth Estates, one California’s…

Blintzes, Blinis, Crepes and Palatschinke

The Mystique of the Thin Pancake

April 3 was National Blintz Day, which may not mean much if you didn’t grow up with an Eastern European heritage. Still, the appeal of the blintz goes far beyond the former Iron Curtain countries. Who can deny the charms of blini with caviar, or the sweet and savory crêpes sold throughout France? You may have eaten pancakes as a…

Benovia Winery

The Legacy of Family

The landscape of Napa and Sonoma is littered with wineries that were once family-owned, independent and fiercely focused on quality. Over the past decade, many of those wineries were absorbed by the Jacksons and Foleys of this world. In most cases the scenario was the same: after decades of conscientious effort, the owners had achieved a measure of critical and…

Flying Above the Clouds

Moet Hennessy Releases Ao Yun

When I first heard that Moët Hennessy was going to make a super-premium red wine in China, I was skeptical. Rumors began to surface six years ago that the company was seeking land in the foothills of the Himalayas to make a Bordeaux-style red that would be on a par with the great wines of the world. The vineyards chosen…