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Italian Renaissance

Mark Spivak

   The area’s Northern Italian restaurants continue to delight us: The ingredients are pristine, the execution is simple and precise, and dishes are served with compassion and care.

Insalata Di Granchio - Trevini Ristorante - Jumbo lump crabmeat tossed in olve oil and lemon juice over panzanella salad
Insalata di Granchio: Jumbo lump crabmeat tossed in olive oil and lemon juice over panzanella salad.


   After more than a decade at 150 Worth, Trevini Ristorante pulled up roots and relocated earlier this year to premises previously occupied by Coco, at the corner of Sunset Avenue and Bradley Place. The chef and dining room crew are the same, but the setting is more expansive.  Inside, the decor is simple and somewhat bland; cream-colored walls offset dark carpeting and modern art brackets the space with soft pastels. In good weather, though, most of the action is centered on the serene courtyard of the Bradley Park Hotel, where one can dine in a Tuscan garden atmosphere.

Panzanella Con Gamberi - Grilled Shrimp wrapped in prosciutto - Trevini Ristorante
Panzanella con Gamberi: Grilled shrimp wrapped in prosciutto over mixed greens, artichoke, hearts of palm and tomato.

   Dinner begins with an order of baked clams oreganata ($14.95), a dozen tiny littlenecks cooked in the oven with a simple topping of seasoned breadcrumbs. Tender, sweet and briny, they do exactly what a starter is supposed to—awaken the appetite and sharpen the taste buds for dishes to come.
   A shared order of cavatelli ($26) is perfectly cooked al dente. The pasta rests in a light vegetable broth, studded with lump crabmeat, sliced garlic and broccoli rabe. Ethereal yet satisfying, the dish is a counterpoint of flavors.
   Main courses do not disappoint. Saltimbocca ($31) features tender scallopine of veal topped with prosciutto, spinach and sage, bathed in a delicate white wine sauce. A whole branzino ($37), or Mediterranean sea bass, is filleted tableside with the skill and dexterity of a surgeon. If you’re schooled in seafood, you’ll be pleased to see the waiter remove the cheeks—the sweetest and most prized part of the fish—and place them on your plate before discarding the head. A few spoonfuls of lemon butter, and the beautifully fresh bass is yours to devour.

Orecchiette con Gamberi - Trevini Ristorante
Orecchiette con Gamberi

   Along the way, there are thoughtful touches. You are greeted by a small platter of bruschetta, topped with garlic and chopped fresh tomato, along with some remarkably plump green olives. Between courses, you are rewarded with a bowl of pencil-thin fried zucchini, accompanied by marinara sauce for dipping.
   The wine list is weighted toward regional Italian whites and reds, with a small selection of Super Tuscans for those who want to splurge and balanced with several dozen well-chosen bottles from California. Prices are reasonable for the most part, compared to the going rates around the island. A bottle of Ceretto Arneis ($50) provides sparkling acidity and rich fruit to stand up to a range of dishes. Desserts are a roll call of conventional specialties—tiramisu, tartufo, zabaglione—and there is a selection of grappa and Italian sweet wine to accompany them.

Vesuvio al Cioccolato - warm chocolate lava cake with vanilla ice cream - Trevini Ristorante

Vesuvio al Cioccolato: Warm chocolate lava cake with vanilla ice cream.

   Service is old school, gracious and attentive. The waiters are friendly but reserved and see to your every need. Managers patrol the floor as well, reinforcing the feeling you are dining in good hands. There is an overall sense of refinement and taste that carries over into almost every detail of this operation.
   The new Trevini trumps the old version on many levels and is justly popular with locals and visitors. Reservations are necessary on weekends as we enter the season and advisable during the week as well.

Trevini Ristorante - Palm Beach - courtyard of the Bradley Park Hotel

Trevini Ristorante

WHERE: 290 Sunset Ave., Palm Beach (561-833-3883, treviniristorante.com)

OPEN: Dinner nightly, 5 p.m. to closing; lunch Monday through Saturday, 11:30 a.m. to 2 p.m.; Sunday brunch, noon to 3 p.m.

FOOD: Classic Northern Italian

ATMOSPHERE: Elegant and comfortable

SERVICE: Gracious and attentive

PRICE: Expensive

RESERVATIONS: Recommended

DRESS: Palm Beach casual

 

Carre D'Aghello con Rapini - Rack of Lamb - Trevini Ristorante
Carre D'Aghello con Rapini: Roasted rack of lamb.

 

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