TASTE
C’est Magnifique
Métronome recreates the sights and tastes of Paris.
By Mark Spivak
Feeling nostalgic for the old days in Paris? Too busy this summer to hop across the pond?
Console yourself with a visit to Métronome Grand Brasserie in Palm Beach Gardens, where you’ll find an authentic reproduction of a Parisian bistro interior—right down to the tiled floor, zinc bar, wooden ceiling fans and colorful posters advertising Vichy water and Chartreuse. Best of all, there are no arrogant waiters pretending not to understand your accent, and you don’t have to pay in euros.
Métronome is an offshoot of midtown Manhattan’s successful bistro Montparnasse, which is operated by Karim El Sherif and Chef David Ferraro. Ferraro has transposed many of his recipes to South Florida, where they are prepared by Chef Miguel Flores. What you’ll find here is large portions of French comfort food, expertly prepared and competently served.
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Lunch gets off to an auspicious start with a bowl of plump, fresh Prince Edward Island mussels ($8), steamed in a soothing broth of white wine, pureed parsley and a touch of cream. This is followed by a grilled fillet of salmon, perfectly seasoned and cooked, resting on a bed of baby greens and pickled radishes. Dishes such as these induce diners to overindulge in the crusty country bread and sweet butter placed on each table. Photo Left: The rich, earthy Coq au Vin is a specialty of the house. |
At dinner, selections are a roll call of faithfully executed classics. Escargots ($9.50) arrive sizzling in butter and enhanced by liberal quantities of garlic. Onion soup ($8) is even better—a rich, intense beef broth crammed with sweet onions, topped with Gruyère cheese melted under the broiler. True to its roots, Métronome also offers starters of clams, oysters and cold lobster, along with tiered shellfish platters for parties of two, four or eight.
The acid test of a brasserie is Steak Frites, and this one ($24) is outstanding. Black Angus hanger steak is seared and served in a red wine reduction, accompanied by crisp, salted fries. A daily special of pan-seared sole ($25) rests on a bed of roasted potatoes, peppers and onions, accented by a lemon beurre blanc. Following Parisian fashion, there is a revolving daily list of Plats du Jour Classique that includes bouillabaisse, braised short ribs and oven-roasted leg of lamb.
Dinner comes to a rousing conclusion with a pair of profiteroles ($7.50), distinctive for their fresh pastry and homemade ice cream finished with the traditional chocolate sauce. Naturally, a selection of cheeses is offered, as are standards such as crème brûlée, cheesecake and apple tart.
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