For a village so small and far-flung, Braemar sure has an elaborate history. From a secret hunting trip that gave rise to the first Jacobite rebellion to Queen Victoria “accidentally” discovering the wild region and putting it on the royal map, this tiny settlement in the Scottish Highlands could supply a lifetime’s worth of campfire stories.
One of its most intriguing is the tale of The Fife Arms, a once-humble coaching inn that Alexander Duff, who was appointed first Duke of Fife when he married Princess Louise, converted to a luxury hotel to capitalize on the tourism boom following Queen Victoria’s purchase of the nearby Balmoral estate. The hotel instantly became the social hub for the British elite in the Highlands.
Nearly 200 years later, The Fife Arms is every bit the legend it once was, albeit for different reasons. Its latest owners, art and hospitality magnates Iwan and Manuela Wirth, have given the property its high-culture flair along with an offbeat point of view that in turns amuses and astounds. Given the Wirths’ background (they own leading art gallery Hauser & Wirth), it’s unsurprising that art takes center stage here. The museum-worthy collection includes more than 16,000 pieces of art and Victoriana objects that reflect the region’s history and heritage. The hotel’s daily art tour, though lengthy, is a must for appreciating pieces by Pablo Picasso, Louise Bourgeois, and Caravaggio. Don’t miss A Stag Shot by John Brown, sketched by Queen Victoria as a tribute to Brown, her confidant and companion while she mourned the death of Prince Albert.
If art is the main character of the Fife Arms story, then design is the narrative engine. Each of the 47 rooms and suites is themed around the people, places, and curiosities that have shaped this Highlands treasure and the wild land around it. In the Victoriana Suites, the hotel’s history as a nineteenth-century inn informs a maximalist decor rich in tartan, antiques, claw-foot tubs, and period wallpaper. The Royal Suites, indebted to the royalty and nobility of the era, have the best views of the Cairngorm mountain range and the most sumptuous fabrics and appointments.
The current buzz is around Room No. 47—the “Secret Room.” Behind a trompe l’oeil door found by following camellia symbols lies the room inspired by Coco Chanel. It may seem like a disconnect, but Chanel had a special relationship with the Highlands. Her former lover, Hugh Grosvenor, second Duke of Westminster, introduced her to the region, where she fell in love with the wild landscapes and the tweed that became an integral part of her collections. In the Secret Room, a Scottish chinoiserie screen, crystal perfume bottles, tweeds in multiple patterns, and a copper tub in a gilded corner of the bedroom speak to Chanel’s many passions. It may not be the largest room, but it is certainly the most elegant.
With its collections and curiosities, The Fife Arms is a destination unto itself, but it’s hard to resist the lure of the wind-scarred moors and pristine rivers unique to this region. An army of outdoor guides called Ghillies stands ready (in traditional estate tweeds) to lead hiking in the Cairngorms, fly-fishing for salmon or wild swimming in the River Dee, horseback riding through the Glen Tanar pine forests, or an elevated picnic in the moorlands. The Ghillies are natural storytellers, and their banter makes these experiences all the more unforgettable.
Regardless of how you spend your days, sooner or later you will find yourself at Bertie’s. This may well be the most special whisky bar in all of Scotland. Named after Queen Victoria’s eldest son, this dark and moody altar to the dram contains 500-plus whiskies mainly from Scotland, including some centuries-old specimens for celebratory moments. A library-like, backlit wall displays the collection with due reverence, adding to the mystique of the caramel-hued lifeblood of the Highlands. Here, you sink into red velvet chairs, lulled by the dim light and Scottish brogue of the guide, sip by sip becoming entranced with this magical place. It’s the storybook ending to a tale you’ll hold close to your heart, and always return to.
