A visit to eastern Utah feels somewhere between a journey to Earth’s core and another planet altogether. At the nexus of national and state parklands, uninhabited, ethereal landscapes stretch in every direction. Steep ridgelines and canyons reveal true wrinkles in time, topography shaped over millions of years. Colossal boulders teeter on precipices beside formations that shift from smooth sandstone to jagged and foreboding, carving valleys, hills, and sudden drops. Against this palette of rust and amber, the sky does its own work: dramatic cloud formations casting spectrums of blue and violet, with flashes of green from pockets of flora. The scene changes by the hour, each shift in light recasting the terrain. The natural splendor here ranks among the most extraordinary in the United States—and it refuses to hold still.
Reaching this remote corner of Utah by air typically means connecting through Phoenix or Denver onto Contour Airlines, the only commercial carrier serving Moab. While connections aren’t always ideal, the final leg more than compensates. The flight doubles as a pilot-led overview of the American Southwest’s greatest hits, especially via Phoenix, tracing paths over the Grand Canyon, Lake Powell, and Capitol Reef National Park before circling closer to the visual apex of red rock country: Arches National Park and Canyonlands National Park, with the La Sal Mountains rising in the distance. Seeing the scale from above sharpens the moment of landing and the immersion that follows. For those arriving by private aircraft, the approach delivers the same perspective. Once on the ground, Ulum Moab Luxury Resort places you squarely within it, a new glamping retreat set on its own sweep of archland.
Opened in 2023, Ulum is an elevated offshoot of Under Canvas, a hotel brand known for its casual, safari-inspired tented camps near national parks. True luxury accommodations close to U.S. national parks remain surprisingly scarce, which makes Ulum’s arrival especially well timed. Here, the concept goes further: a remote 200-acre setting, larger and more fully equipped tents (about 360 square feet), and common spaces that feel considered without trying too hard. Each of the 50 tents includes a king bed, private deck, rain shower, wood-burning stove, and in-tent cooling. The central hub—a restaurant and bar framed by retractable glass—looks out over sandstone formations and a trio of pools, with viewing decks and firepits incorporated into the terrain using natural materials. The entire site faces Looking Glass Arch, an easy hike and a constant presence, with wide-open views stretching toward Canyonlands National Park.
Ulum sits about 30 minutes from Moab, close enough for park access, far enough to feel removed. Days here build quickly: one or two in Arches, another in Canyonlands, another at Dead Horse Point State Park. The Colorado River is within reach for rafting, whether you want something gentle or more technical. Beyond the parks, there are endless miles of trails, scenic drives, and no shortage of places to pause and take it all in, plus opportunities for rappelling and serious rock climbing. Ulum can arrange much of it, but a rental car is a must if you want to move beyond the property.
It’s just as easy to stay put. The setting alone justifies a slower day (or two). Looking Glass Arch is a short walk away, and the resort’s restaurant turns out thoughtful dishes using local ingredients—radicchio Caesar, grilled trout, bison ravioli. A massage therapist works out of the “wellness cave,” a century-old man-made space carved into sandstone and repurposed as a treatment room. Three dipping pools range from cold plunge to hot, with one in between. At dusk, guests gather for s’mores and conversation before the desert sky takes over. From your private terrace or the shared firepits, the stars come into focus in a way that’s hard to replicate elsewhere.
Ulum comes close to perfect—no small feat in a region where true luxury near the parks is scarce—but it isn’t without limitation: it operates seasonally, shaped by the same desert conditions that formed the landscape around it. For 2026, the camp closes October 29 and is expected to reopen in late March 2027. However, while the camp may close with the season, for those who’ve experienced Ulum, the place never really lets you leave.
Facebook Comments