An Aegean Odyssey

Two of Greece’s most sublime islands delight with natural beauty, cultural treasures, and views for days

Troulos Beach in Skiathos is known for its crystal-clear, calm water. Photo courtesy of iStock
Troulos Beach in Skiathos is known for its crystal-clear, calm water. Photo courtesy of iStock

A Villa of One’s Own

Most visitors to Greece make a beeline for the Cyclades islands, charmed by the whitewashed buildings silhouetted against the sapphire sea and the buzzy, cosmopolitan beaches. Fair enough. But as summer tourism swells in the charismatic island chain, there are good reasons to look elsewhere for that authentic Greek experience—quaint harbors and Byzantine monasteries included.

The cognoscenti already know about the Sporades. This island archipelago north of Athens offers the best attributes of the Aegean without the crowds or commoditized Hellenism. When approaching from the sea, you notice the difference right away: the landscape is mountainous and lush, with pine trees tumbling down hillsides to the water’s edge. Beaches range from large sandy swathes to windswept coves defined by rock formations that recall ancient tales from the Odyssey.

Geometric forms define the architecture at Nous Santorini. Photo courtesy of Nous Santorini
Geometric forms define the architecture at Nous Santorini. Photo courtesy of Nous Santorini

The jewel of the Sporades is Skiathos, which strikes the perfect balance between tranquility and excitement. The best way to experience it is by renting a hilltop villa with wraparound views of the Aegean. London-based The Thinking Traveller offers several villas in the Sporades, including the exquisite Azalea on Skiathos. Located in Troulos on the island’s southwest coast, the six-bedroom villa is designed in traditional Mediterranean style with stone-paved terraces and shaded verandas surrounded by mature olive and fig trees, bougainvilleas, and oleanders. The symphony of blues, greens, and earth tones gives a spectacular first impression, but the true spirit of the villa unfolds quietly over time.

Mornings start with a swim in the pool, followed by a traditional Greek breakfast of fruit, breads, cheeses, and honey—all sourced or produced locally and prepared by the villa’s cook, Eleni. Eleni and the rest of the staff provide flawless service but are also mindful of retreating after mealtimes so guests have total privacy.

Skiathos Harbor. Photo courtesy of iStock
Skiathos Harbor. Photo courtesy of iStock

A downhill path leads to Azalea’s private beach appointed with loungers, a stocked cooler, kayaks, and paddleboards. The water is refreshing, even at the peak of summer, and so clear you can see the veining on the pebbles beneath the surface. With a picnic lunch and some music, it’s easy to lose all track of time.

Outside of the villa is an island worth exploring. On the west coast, a hike in the woods of Mandraki, toward Elias Cove, leads to a forgotten beach and a thatch-roofed shack that serves some of the best seafood in Skiathos. Out east, near the windy beaches of Xanemo, there’s always a crowd to watch airplanes descend for landing. The seaside airport has a short runway, so landings are a bit of a spectacle as planes approach directly above beachgoers.

A terrace for dining and lounging is surrounded by olive trees and oleanders. Photo courtesy of the Thinking Traveller
A terrace for dining and lounging is surrounded by olive trees and oleanders. Photo courtesy of the Thinking Traveller

Further inland is the monastery of Panagia Evangelistria (Annunciation of the Virgin), one of the most historically significant monasteries in Greece. Here, in 1807, the occupied nation’s freedom fighters wove the flag of the independent state and swore an oath to free Greece from Ottoman rule. Today, it is still a working monastery with beautiful chapels, a hilltop café, a museum, vineyards, and an olive press. Locally produced products (some by the monks themselves) are for sale in a small shop.

Villa Azalea’s private beach. Photo courtesy of the Thinking Traveller
Villa Azalea’s private beach. Photo courtesy of the Thinking Traveller

Evenings are best spent in Skiathos town near the docks, where shops, restaurants, and nightlife abound. For elevated Greek cuisine in a charming courtyard space, Marmita is a can’t-miss. From grilled Mastelo cheese with marinated peaches to roasted rabbit in Samos sweet wine, the offerings are creative and the experience world-class.

Mind you, a homemade dinner on the terrace of Azalea is no slouch, especially if Eleni’s famous pies are on the menu. With a star-strewn sky above and a summer breeze wafting up from the sea, there’s no better way to conclude a perfect day in Skiathos.

Nous Santorini offers experiences like private tours of the capital, Fira. Photo courtesy of iStock
Nous Santorini offers experiences like private tours of the capital, Fira. Photo courtesy of iStock

Bespoke Santorini

Santorini’s volcanic topography and blue-domed whitewashed churches perched atop plunging cliffs have become symbolic of an idyllic Greek vacation. Yet most travelers to this Cycladic icon bounce only between the crowded streets of Fira (the capital city) and Oia, renowned for its sunsets, forgoing some of the island’s more esoteric but no less wondrous attributes.

Nous’ Pool Bungalows offer expansive outdoor areas and reflect Santorini’s famously spare design. Photo courtesy of Nous Santorini
Nous’ Pool Bungalows offer expansive outdoor areas and reflect Santorini’s famously spare design. Photo courtesy of Nous Santorini

To really get to know Santorini, it helps to have a local curate the experience. Nous Santorini, a Yes! Hotel, has stepped brilliantly into this role, crafting original and personalized activities for its guests. The hotel is centrally positioned in Mesaria, a village within 10 minutes of the capital, and offers dramatic views of the Aegean. A compound of geometric structures that look both contemporary and ancient, the design-forward Nous is in itself a destination. The hotel’s art collection, viewable throughout the common areas and accommodations, is centered on Greek artists and tells a heritage story through a contemporary lens. Materials take a cue from the island’s volcanic landscape and arid surroundings, and bespoke furnishings—the work of some of the nation’s top designers—express a connection to land and sea.

Elio’s Italian American Chophouse serves classic cuts and cocktails. A DJ brings the vibes. Photo courtesy of Nous Santorini
Elio’s Italian American Chophouse serves classic cuts and cocktails. A DJ brings the vibes. Photo courtesy of Nous Santorini

But what truly sets Nous apart is its focus on experiences that don’t appear in the guidebooks. This can be anything from a customized wine trail tour discovering Santorini’s little-known (but superb) vintages to a visit to an art gallery inside a subterranean wine cave. One of the most fascinating opportunities is an expert-led excursion to Akrotiri, an ancient Minoan city that was destroyed during the circa-1600 BCE eruption that famously sank half of Santorini (then Thera) into the sea. At this living archeological dig, multistory buildings, incredibly well-preserved frescoes, and intricate infrastructure have risen from ash and stone to reveal an advanced civilization.

The best way to cap days of discovery is with the sexy nightlife of Fira, which can range from intimate bars to the lively scene at Koo Club and Enigma. It’s all about balance.

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