Modern American wine is so much more diverse, nuanced, and captivating than what is typically stocked at large chain liquor stores, where Cabernet Sauvignon, Pinot Noir, Merlot, Chardonnay, Sauvignon Blanc, and Zinfandel dominate the market. While those varieties can yield some of the finest wines in the world, there is a concurrent and stirring story to tell. Under-the-radar grape varieties such as Gamay, Vermentino, Trousseau, Carignan, and a litany of others are becoming more popular. In general, the cost of making these underdog grape varieties is much less due to market demand. Yet, when crafted by artisan, small-scale winemakers, the result can be exhilarating. These examples make up an infinitesimal percentage of the wine that is made in America, but their diversity of taste and beauty are worth exploration.
2022 Division Gamay Noir Lutte, Oregon
Gamay—a red grape variety mostly found in Beaujolais, a subregion of Burgundy, France—produces wines of intense delicacy, fragrance, and playfulness on the palate. In Oregon, Gamay thrives thanks to the state’s more temperate climate.
2022 Matthiasson Vermentino Cressida Vineyard, California
Vermentino is a Mediterranean grape variety most often found in the South of France and parts of Italy. The lightness and thirst-quenching qualities of Vermentino make it a natural marriage with seaside cuisine.
2022 Turley Cinsault Bechthold Vineyard, California
Turley made its mark with a focus on old-vine Zinfandel, but its Cinsault—a common blending grape in many southern French reds—is an unheralded star. Many of these Cinsault vines are more than a hundred years old, producing a wine of substantial concentration, silkiness, and complexity.
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