Chef Suzanne Perrotto, owner of Brulé Bistro, remembers the coarse grain of semolina flour on her fingertips and the peaceful feeling that hung in the air as she rolled out pasta next to her mother, Linda Rose, in the kitchen of her circa-1976 Hudson Valley trattoria. “I’ve had a lot of great mentors, but the most important one was my mother,” she says.
With the opening of her second restaurant, Rose’s Daughter, Perrotto pays homage to the woman who inspired her love for food and chases that meditative state of simplicity. Vintage family photos and mementos adorn the walls of the Delray Beach eatery located at the former site of Max’s Harvest. The rustic back patio recalls the homegrown tenderness of your Italian granny’s garden—if you were lucky enough to have one.
Many of the dishes that grace the menu, such as the perfectly al dente pasta or the spinach dumplings—divine little mounds of fresh-made buttermilk ricotta and potato—are hand-me-down recipes that have remained untouched for more than 40 years. But the Acunto pizza oven is all Perrotto, with a little help from another mentor, Neapolitan pizza legend Roberto Caporuscio. One bite of the cloud-like nuvola caputo dough, and you too will revere the time-honored techniques Perrotto so faithfully executes.
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