Flagler Museum Unveils Exhibition Celebrating the Department Store

The Flagler Museum recently unveiled “May I Help You, Madame? The Making of the Modern Department Store,” on view now through May. The exhibition explores the emergence and cultural impact of the modern department store, anchored by a major creative collaboration with celebrated window dresser, author, and cultural commentator Simon Doonan. This marks the first time the museum has collaborated with an outside creative voice on an exhibition.

At the center of the exhibition is Doonan’s original installation, “Flagler à La Mode,” which blends historic objects from the Flagler Museum archives, such as rarely seen garments and personal belongings of Mary Lily and Henry Flagler, with contemporary visual storytelling. Infused with Doonan’s trademark wit and eye for character, the installation evokes the early department store’s power to spark fascination, aspiration, and desire.

“Flagler à La Mode” also showcases a selection of treasures from the museum’s permanent collection. Highlights include a handbag donated by fashion icon Iris Apfel, Mary Lily’s intricately carved mahjong set, archival photographs from the museum’s inaugural 1960 Restoration Ball, and silk scarves once belonging to Jean Flagler Matthews.

“May I Help You, Madame?” encourages visitors to consider the department store not merely as a shopping destination but as a transformative cultural institution—a driver of architectural innovation, a key site of women’s employment outside the home, and a force in shaping modern identity and consumer culture.

The exhibition is accompanied by a lecture series featuring leading voices in fashion retail and visual culture. The series kicked off on December 2 with a talk by Doonan. Upcoming sessions include: 

“They All Came to Barneys” with Gene Pressman

On December 8, Pressman discusses his new book They All Came to Barneys, offering rare insights into the artistry, innovation, and vision that shaped Barneys New York into a global fashion icon. A book signing will follow.

Documentary Premiere & Discussion with The Urban Electric Co. with Robert Rufino

On January 7, enjoy a behind-the-scenes documentary about legendary artist and street theater pioneer Robert Rufino. The film documents Rufino’s return to window display as he transforms 10th Street in New York City into a living, immersive artwork. A Q&A will follow.

For more information about the exhibit and lectures, visit flaglermuseum.org.